Burberry Prorsum

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Text Josh Peskowitz

The lion’s share of menswear staples began life as military issue, including trench coats, blucher shoes, epaulets, cargo pants, field jackets, plaids, oiled cotton, motorcycle jackets—the list goes on and on. Dries Van Noten’s collection took prep and military boarding schools as a starting point. Army-grade Melton wool was used for peacoats and M-65 inspired field coats. Burberry Prorsum’s entire collection was dedicated to the company’s archives of military jackets. It was actually commissioned by the British War Office to create the very first trench coat in the early 20th century. And every one of the coats in the show had actually been sold by Burberry at some point in its history. The canvas army parka was seen on several runways, including Wood Wood in Copenhagen and Michael Bastian in New York. Hope showed a white Swedish winter anorak, and Bottega Veneta had an M-65 army field jacket in several hues. Even Lanvin showed its twist on army with cargo pants and army boots. Actually pretty much every show this season had a version of a combat or a cavalry riding boot.

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