SUMMER 2010
Danica Lo | April 20, 2010
VMAN caught up with Trussardi creative director Milan Vukmirovic in his Milan showroom the day after his spring-summer 2010 show. When we walked in to the space, which overlooks the Piazza Scala, Vukmirovic was busy tearing open boxes and sorting through a new delivery.
You’re unpacking your own boxes.
I want to keep my feet on the ground. I don’t want to become the designer who’s always dressed the same, that nobody can talk to. It’s hard because somehow that’s what people want you to become.
Even when I’m in the studio and I do fashion shoots and everything, I can get a bottle of water myself. Some photographers have three or four assistants around – they have 70 people on a photo shoot, it’s too much.
And in this economy, too.
Sometimes you can do even better when you have less – you can’t be wrong because you have less money, so you have to think more about the idea, the creativity, the concept. For me, this moment of economic crisis is very important because a lot of things are changing – it’s not just a financial thing, it’s also a generational thing. So much has changed this year. You know how sometimes there are key moments? I think we’re at a key moment – the new generation that we’re part of doesn’t have the same ways and means to buy or consume fashion as the older generation.
I had this interesting conversation with Beatrice [Trussardi] where I was saying, I love fashion, I’m a client, I have money, I always buy. But I don’t think that people who have money only go to Prada, Gucci, St. Laurent, Balenciaga, and Escada. They also go to American Apparel, Urban Outfitters and Gap, so there’s a complete mix now. There are no rules anymore. Maybe we don’t want a $5,000 or $10,000 bag. Maybe we also want a bag that’s cute and fun. I think luxury has to open itself much more. When you go to Vuitton or Hermes, there’s always something for everybody – at Hermes you have the bracelet for 200 or 300 Euros, you have silk foulards, and crocodile bags. There are things that are nice and not nice, but you can always find something, which is something I like in the idea of luxury because I think a luxury brand has to open itself up – especially Trussardi.
How is Trussardi planning on broadening its client base to reach this new generation?
We’re revamping the brand, we’re coming back. It’s called Trussardi 1911 because it’s the crest of the family – and, in fact, the company’s going to be 100 years old in two years, so it’s the goal of me and Beatrice that in two years the company will have completely renewed. From every store to the restaurant here. It’s an important moment in the company. Beatrice is young, she’s full of energy, full of ideas, and we get along really well.
For me, there are two things – one is to show the quality of the leather and all the savoir faire of the company. Secondly, Trussardi was all about glass, brushed cold metal, and white. I said, let’s use wood, a leather floor – because you’re a leather company – let’s do something warm, leather to smell, some precious, cool marble. Let’s always have this kind of twist.
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Learn more about Trussard in VMAN16, out next week!
KEYWORDS: fashion, mens fashion, trussardi
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