With London hosting next year’s Olympic Games, there was no more obvious place for Y-3′s Yohji Yamamoto and Dirk Schönberger to look than the U.K.’s fashion capital for influence on their collection for Spring/Summer 2012—which isn’t to say that it’s a bad instinct. Gothic romanticism fused with English mod and punk iconography in athleticwear, subverting fashion’s impulse to trend on subcultures by employing their imagery in the least expected place: the track, field, and court. Might Japanese Olympians hit the Opening Ceremonies in scuba boots with shell toes? Wouldn’t it be nice?

Here are a few of our favorite looks.