As this week has proven, fashion loves history. After a stand out collection a few days ago from the Dolce & Gabbana main line, the D&G men’s show cemented Stefano and Domenico’s 20th anniversary, and hence their 40th season making menswear, as one of note. Projections of freestyle skiers appeared on either side of a wooden-plank runway as the models, bundled up for a D&G-style weekend in Aspen, walked out from between rough-hewn log columns. Aside from the patent singlet ski suits (a bit similar to the space suits of a few seasons ago) the collection was a series of the most charming mountain gear an aspiring powder enthusiast could hope for. The boots were snowboard/moonboot hybrids, the jeans were of shearling, and the layers of outerwear masqueraded as knits. The chunky ones were lined in fur, and the puffer ones were covered in Fair Isle knits, as were the fur lined hunting-flap caps. Mika’s “Toy Boy,” which was played repeatedly through the show, contributed to the collection’s light-hearted, cozy feel. For après ski, the look was velvet tuxes in rich chocolate or grey flannel, both tipped in black grosgrain—and paired with those boots of course.

Ermenegildo Zegna celebrates its centennial this year, and for his Fall Z Zenga collection, creative director Alessandro Sartori brought all of the house’s significant sartorial resources to bare. He called it techno tailoring, and for good reason: not a single panel was stitched together. Instead they were joined using grosgrain strips (similar to how fur coats are made) to create floating seams that shimmered as the body moved. The outerwear was of the supplest leather and the suits of the most luxurious wool. At Zegna’s next centennial, these garments will still feel ahead of their time.

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KEYWORDS: D&G, fashion week, runway, Z ZEGNA