Mihara Yasuhiro’s collection is always one of the more innovative and exciting of the week. Though his name doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, Yasuhiro always manages to make clothes that are unique, poignant, truly weird, and highly desirable. For Fall 2010 he took inspiration from the beat generation, specifically Alan Ginsberg and William Burroughs’s questioning of large-scale consumer culture. Shaky ground for a pricey designer collection but Yasuhiro’s love for Americana and his ability to take disparate garments and fuse them together made it work. The half Belstaff motorcycle jacket/half western puffer vest is a perfect example, as is the suit with upturned denim cuffs. The oversized knits and the blazers were created using a combination of wool and horsehide. Bold prints included jacquard tapestry patterns and woven photographic shearling.

Ann Demeulemeester might well have created the uniforms for the monastic order of Saint Bowie for her fall collection. How else could you describe the somber procession of immaculate costumes in black and beige crepe and bouclé, pants gathered at the waist by lengths of monkish woven belting, and the tunics flowing from beneath rough hewn blazers? The wrapped up jackets and cowl necks were followed by full fur wraps, black cock feather snoogs, and vests matched with leather cargo pants. For the finale, the models returned to the columned runway to a German rendition “Heroes,” and nothing, nothing could have been more perfect.

Kris Van Assche’s latest collection for Dior Homme had a bit of Germany in it as well, but in a more industrial sense. The music was fast paced and hard, and the models walked with a conviction and energy that was nice to see back on the Dior runway. Van Assche’s new silhouette for Dior derived from a fuller-cut, cropped trouser and a micro-lapelled jacket. Both were almost completely covered by flowing belted overcoats. The coats hit at the exact same length as the trouser hems to reveal the show’s highlight, strapped ankle boots. Other interesting pieces were blazers where one lapel wrapped as a scarf (reminiscent of his own collection) and a belted leather pea coat. The monochromatic collection was certainly a step in a new direction for Van Assche at Dior.

Photography Andrew Burmiester

Follow VMAN on twitter for live updates from the shows

KEYWORDS: ann demeulemeester, Dior Homme, Mihara Yasuhiro, paris fashion week

* Required Field

Your Name: *

Your E-Mail: *

Your Remark:

Friend's Name: *

Separate multiple entries with a comma. Maximum 5 entries.

Friend's E-Mail: *

Separate multiple entries with a comma. Maximum 5 entries.

Image Verification: *

 Loading ...